Apparently, the easiest way to get there is to park you car at the Ramakrishna Ashram Metro Station and walk down. But that's based on the assumption that you manage to get a spot in the overcrowded parking lot (No prizes for guessing that I didn't)! So, the best-er way is to take a metro from CP (or wherever). Enough about getting there though...
What I saw of Paharganj was a never-ending (or so Shilpa claims) road lined with Janpath-esque shops - colorful jholas and skirts, dingy artefacts and junk jewellery. But there was more to it. More than the cafes that lined the street. More than the hippie-looking phoren people. More than the pot-holed street that could barely be walked on. There is something about Paharganj that's eerie and welcoming at the same time. It's like a generous host who has a big smile and open arms but whose eyes warn you to not try and get too close.
After haggling for dirt cheap clothes (that looked second hand to say the least) we went to the (apparently) much talked about Sam's Cafe. The entrance makes it look like any other local cafe. Quite deceptive! 'Coz if you take it for what it first appears to be, you miss out on the best part - the rooftop seating area. It's on the third floor. And you HAVE TO see Dilli lit up from up there! Makes you fall in love with the city all over again :)
The staff lets you be. The crowd's mostly the backpacking kids. The menu looks extremely tempting. The food...uh...well, let's just say there's more to Sam's cafe than the food! ;)